Deserts and Dick's

We said our goodbyes to Tahoe and hit the road for Kyle's birthday weekend celebration: Phish at Dick's Sporting Goods Park!! We took our sweet time getting there, leaving about a week in advance so we could explore Utah on our way. There are so many national parks and monuments clustered together in Utah, it's hard to decide where to visit! Of course I would say them all, if you have the time! We fit in Bryce Canyon National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and Arches National Park.

Photos don't do it justice!

We weren't even planning on going to Bryce Canyon, but we passed right by it and couldn't resist. I am really glad we went! In my opinion Bryce Canyon is more spectacular than the Grand Canyon. What's nice about Bryce is that the trail into the canyon is short enough to do in a day, unlike the Grand Canyon, which is better made into an overnight trip. When we went to the Grand Canyon (read about that trip here), we only had time to descend 3 miles into the canyon, leaving about 3.5 more to get to the bottom. You could do that in a day but it would be grueling and wouldn't leave you much time to appreciate your surroundings. At Bryce Canyon, you can experience much of the geological formations in only 4 miles. When we got there, we set up camp at Sunset Campground. This campground is in an ideal location, as it is walking distance to many points of interest. For interagency pass holders, the cost of a tent site is $10, without the pass it's $20. The interagency pass has saved us so much money, I highly recommend getting one!! Once we were all settled, we walked to Sunset Point, which is the best place to get a panorama view of the formations, called hoodoos. The hoodoos are ombre: fading from burnt orange, to baby pink, and then bone colored. The color variations has to do with different mineral deposits that occurred with changing water levels. We hopped on the Navajo Loop Trail, which led us down into the canyon, around hoodoos and Douglas-firs that have grown miraculously in the primarily limestone soil. Instead of continuing on the loop, we veered off to extend our trip to Queen's Garden. There is a hoodoo in the "garden" of hoodoos that looks like Queen Victoria! It really does! After we hiked the trails, we came back later to Sunset Point. It's not really that great of a place to watch the sunset, considering that the sun was to our backs. We also arrived a little late and I think if we had been a little earlier the sun would have cast magnificent colors on the hoodoos. We did, however, wake up early the next day to catch the sunrise at Sunrise Point, which gives you a beautiful view to the east over Bryce Canyon. The sky was a bit cloudy, blocking the sunrise's true potential, but it was beautiful nonetheless.

A photo of the Grand Staircase from Hole-in-the-Rock Road, as far a we got. 

We didn't stick around too long, because we had a big day ahead of us. Our plan was to explore some slot canyons in Grand-Staircase-Escalante National Monument, particularly Zebra Slot and Spooky Gulch. It is very important to stop at the information center beforehand and check the conditions of the slots and the weather forecast. If it starts to rain, the slots can fill up very fast. Plus, the information center gives you great directions on how to get to the slots. We were especially glad that we stopped at the information center, because they told us Zebra was impassable due to it's water levels. Spooky was accessible, but the road might not be in my little VW Jetta. It had rained the previous night, leaving Zebra Slot filled and the roads questionable for a compact car. We came all that way though, so we navigated to Hole-in-the-Rock Road anyways, which is the 26 mile dirt road that leads to the slots. We drove about 7 miles down the bumpy road, before we reached a muddy patch that we decided not to test (the park ranger told us towing was VERY expensive out there). We were disappointed, but not defeated, resolving we'd just have to come back! The whole drive was rewarded with spectacular views of hills that must have been the inspiration behind the name "Grand Staircase," as they had clear layers of different sediments, alternating beige and brown, like stairs.

The swimming hole on Mill Creek.

Since the slots didn't work out that morning (it was still early since we had gotten up for sunrise), we made it Moab with time to kill... but it was SO HOT! We quickly made plans to find the only swimming spot in Moab (other than the Colorado River, which is very swift and silty and not very fun for leisure swimming), Mill Creek. The trailhead is at the end of Powerhouse Lane and there is a gravel parking lot, with plenty of space. There are many foot paths that lead immediately to the water's edge, but take the path near the information sign and keep walking, past the dammed waterfall, where some people may be swimming. This isn't "the spot." Continue behind the metal barrier that says "no bikes." This path will cross the river in three places before you either clamber up the slickrock (petrified sand dunes) on the left, which leads to the top of the waterfall. You can jump, but use caution as it is pretty shallow. We enjoyed the pools at the top of the falls, but if you don't want to climb, you can simply walk up the river to the base of the falls. We were so thankful for the cool water. The river is a miracle in itself, flowing in the middle of the desert around pink-toned slickrock. We enjoyed this spot so much we came back the next day. It was half out of necessity though! It's the best way to cool off in Moab and only about 10 minutes from downtown. We had planned to camp in Arches, but by that time in the afternoon all the campsites were booked. We had a big day planned in Arches the next morning, so we wanted to be close to the park.

The calm after the storm.

We ended up staying at Slickrock Campground, which was expensive for what it was. At around $30, it's the cheapest we could find in town, but their wifi didn't work and their hot tub was cold. Literally cold. And of course right as we started to set up our tent one of those freak desert storms rolled through. We had to tie ropes to our tent poles, then to trees, to add extra support so the wind wouldn't flatten our it completely. The rain was just as brutal as the wind and we were fully drenched by the time we got the tent up. We headed into town to get some dinner, because cooking was not a possibility in that weather. Of course, once we ate the storm had cleared leaving us a beautiful rainbow. On our way back to Slickrock Campground, we stopped at Lin Ottinger's Moab Rock Shop. I've been curious about rocks lately and really want to try rockhounding! Lin Ottinger is a famous rockhounder, whose discoveries and knowledge of rocks have led to published works. The shop is littered with rocks, minerals, and fossils. I left the store with a septarian nodule (because they are so dang cool looking) and a book to teach me more about rocks! It's only the beginning of a super cool hobby!

We ended up being happy with our decision to stay near the park. We got up just after sunrise to get to Delicate Arch, which is the iconic 65-foot arch that decorates Utah's license plate: a must-see if visiting Arches. Parking is located at the Wolfe Ranch site, which was a homestead built in 1898 by John Wesley Wolfe. A lot of people bypass the tiny one-room cabin altogether, but go peak in the windows and imagine getting to that spot when there were no roads or maps! The trail starts by the Wolfe Ranch cabin and then continues 1.5 miles until you round the bend and see the arch. Not far from the cabin, is a short spur trail, where you can view Ute petroglyphs depicting bighorn sheep and horses. The trail is well-defined until you come to a slickrock bank. From here, the trial blurs in the smoothed hill, but there are cairns (rock stacks) to lead you the rest of the way. As you begin to ascend, the landscape becomes more and more foreign, till you are surrounded by nothing but orangey-pink slickrock formations. Welcome to Mars!! When Delicate Arch finally comes into view, you realized it is much bigger than you imagined. The ground beneath the arch forms a funnel, like water pooled there for many centuries or a U.F.O left a saucer-like mark. It's a weird place. We got there just in time, too. Early morning is the best time to visit Delicate Arch, before it gets over-run by loads of tourists delivered by Greyhound buses. We managed to snap a few photos as people started to trickle in. Our next stop was the Firey Furnace. We had to do a little backtracking, because we got to the park before the visitor's center opened and a permit is required for this hike. The permit cost $6, again unless you have the interagency pass it's only $2!! It's a wise idea to get your permit in the morning, as they only allow 50 people a day to enter the furnace. In order to obtain the permit, you have to watch a short video explaining how to leave no trace while in the Firey Furnace. It's pretty self-explanatory stuff. The most important is staying in the sandy washes, where the water flows, or on the slickrock. Walking on the soil crust can reverse a lot of hard, slow-moving work done by nature. One thing that might deter someone from hiking this area of Arches, is there are no trail markers inside the furnace. We used the hoodoo formations as landmarks, remembering some as looking like Buddha, a middle finger, a butt crack... You have to be creative, because it is very easy to get turned around down there!!

Natural bridge inside the Firey Furnace. 

The Firey Furnance was a good trade off for missing out on the slot canyons, because there are many tight slots and places you get to scramble around inside the Firey Furnance. We loved the aspect of unmarked trails. We only ran into 4 or 5 other people during the 4 hours we spent wandering around in the magnificent structures. It's a place where you can truly be in awe of the power and creativity of nature, with no one around to disturb the peace. The Firey Furnance is a hike you can do multiple times and never see the same thing twice! The last thing we wanted to do in Arches, was to see Landscape Arch--- the longest arch on the planet at 209 feet!! Landscape Arch is along the Devil's Garden Trail, which is the longest trail in the park at around 7 miles. Landscape Arch is only about 1.5 miles down the trail and there is a short spur trail before you reach big papa that leads to two other arches: Pine Tree and Tunnel Arch. The trail is very well-maintained and suitable for all ages and at less than 3 miles round-trip, you are silly if you don't go see this behemoth! Landscape Arch, like all the arches, have changed throughout the years. The arch is very thin at the top thanks to large chunks (as big as 75 feet) collapsing in 1991 and 1995. All the arches are formed by elements of weather and will continue to erode. Landscape Arch is getting skinny, who knows how much longer it will retain the title as longest arch. Go see it while you can!

We booked it from Moab the next morning to Avon, Colorado to chill with our friend Emma for the day in preparation for the crazy weekend we had ahead of us. When we got to Emma's house, we walked to the Eagle-Vail Trail and breathed some of that moist mountain air, which we were grateful for after spending so much time in Utah. She took us to a really cool spot she found--- a platform built in the trees. We hung out there, eye-level with the tops of the forest. We could have kept going much farther on the trail, but Emma had to rehearse for a gig she was signing at later and we had to fill our bellies. She told us about a sweet deal at Nozawa's: 1/2 off every roll for the entire summer (their slow season)! We didn't believe it, but alas it was true. You know those 14 dollar rolls you always want to try, but don't want to spend that much? They are now a reality!! After we had our fill, we went to Emma's gig at a new brewery called Vail Brewing Company. Emma was just singing with a couple of her friends, super informal, two guitars and a cajon. I had no idea what a voice she had! They had the bars' full attention. We didn't get any drinks, 'cause we're on a budget, but I do recommend this place! I believe the brewery was converted from a mechanic business, because they had roller garage doors that made for a nice alfresco setting. It's connected to a gas station and weed store, so you can essentially fulfill all your needs in one stop!

He's 23!!

We got up early the next morning to get to Dick's Sporting Goods Park and claim our campsite. What Phish does at Dick's is really unique. Unlike a festival, Phish only played two sets each night (in exception to the last night), a typical concert. Unlike most concerts, you are allowed to camp on-site with the purchase of a camping pass. Now, Phish must pay off Dick's, because they have that place locked down (in a good way): they completely transform a soccer stadium into a giant stage, the security guards are all super cool, there's music late night in the campground, Shakedown Street is huge, and Phish played waaaay past curfew on the last night. The campground is located on the practice fields. The only rule is no glass in the campground, which is understandable considering people place sports in the same location. You have to park in a lot and lug your stuff in. It's not a very far walk and the worst part of the whole endeavor is you have to get checked every time, which really holds up the line. Once everyone's all settled, there isn't a line to get in and security is so laid back. It's a breeze for the rest of the weekend. We had seat tickets, instead of floor, for the whole weekend. I was a little perturbed by this, because we did the lottery. I feel like if you plan to go to an event 3 months in advance, you deserve floor tickets. They later release floor tickets, making you wish you had just waited!! I don't think it's a very fair or efficient system. As we were going in the first night, we had decided we would sneak in to meet up with friends who had floor tickets. I was kind of surprised by the scene that awaited me past the entrance gates of the stadium. I am the kind of dancer who likes bare feet in a field. The soccer field was completely covered by thick plastic (obviously to not damage the grass) and the rest of the seats encircled the once-field were filling up quick. We started to get nervous as we waited for our opening to sneak in. Kyle was the one who was really chickening out! We finally just went for it and it was a piece of cake! If you are dismayed about having seats, do not worry. Sprint past the guards and get quickly in the crowd--- they can't abandon their post or the masses would rush in!! We got about halfway into the crowd, Page Side Rage Side. We had completely given up on finding our friends, when one of them miraculously past by us on his way back from getting drinks. He grabbed our hands and led us even deeper into the crowd, enraging many people who had been waiting near the stage (sorry!), until we were about 5 rows from the stage. It's awesome being so close to these musical magicians and watching their every, calculated move. Kyle and I wrote a list of all the songs we wanted to hear during the weekend and I believe out of 30 or so, we got about 7. Of course, Phish played songs we didn't even think to put on our list and new songs that we will add to our list next time!! Never disappointed! The first night, I was especially excited to cross Ghost and Roses Are Free off the list. I hadn't heard Roses are Free since my first Phish show, where I bought a Roses Are Free shirt on lot. This night, I had bought a Roses Are Free pin on lot. I swear Phish played it for me both times! They always know... Check out this article recapping the night. After the show, our gang of friends got a taxi and went to the Bluebird Theater to see Pigeons Playing Ping Pong late night. I was pretty exhausted at the show, so I wasn't getting my maximum groove on. This was my first time seeing Pigeons and I loved their renditions of James Brown's Sex Machine and RHCP's Suck My Kiss. They killed 'em.

We spent the night at our friend's Air BnB, but made it back to the campsite fairly early to recuperate for tonight's show. We ventured around the campground, meeting our neighbors. A group a couple tents down from us ended up being our dance buddies at Phish show earlier this summer in Mountain View, CA. They drove from Tahoe too! Phish Phamily is a small one: it's crazy how many people you start running into all over the country! I'm only on my 13th show and I've already made so many friends. I know some people who are on their 500+ show! I can't imagine what it's like for them. As we were wandering, we noticed a band was setting up in the RV lot for an after party gig. We got stoked when we saw their drums said The Malai Llama. We saw them over a year ago in Breckenridge, CO at three20south, opening for Toubab Krewe. They are a local Colorado band, who rips it! We went into the show around the same time we did the night before, in case we needed to sneak in again. We ended up finding an awesome spot on the highest rail, giving us an amazing panorama view. The best part is there are speakers set up towards the back to amplify and provide good sound quality for everyone! The only problem is I have such bad vision and it was pretty blurry. I thought that's how it was for Kyle too, until we were talking about it later and he could see way more than I could. Next time, I'm bringing binoculars. There were things I missed like the key-tar solo, that I really wish I had! Good thing they film these things! The light show was still spectacular, making up for what I couldn't see. We enjoyed this spot and the people around us so much, that we all agreed to meet there again for the last night and Kyle's birthday. More friends!! You can read in more detail about tonight's show here. They pulled out a song they created for their Halloween show in 2014, Martian Monster, that is so funky!! They played Split Open and Melt and Character Zero, which were on our list as well. Even once Phish was done playing, the party wasn't over! We immediately headed to the parking lot to catch The Malai Llama. They were so cool, getting into and participating with the crowd!!! They've been a band for awhile, but their first album comes out in October. I'm definitely buying it once it drops and you should too! Here's a link to their store.

It's the last day and KYLE'S BIRTHDAY!!! We were anxious for what the night would hold, as Phish was clearly going to end it right. They love Dick's. Kyle made tons of friends today, sharing his bucket of margarita and it being his birthday. When we got back to our spot that night, all our buddies were there from the night before. It was a reunion filled with hugs, birthday wishes, and anticipation for the face-melting we were about to undergo. They played Backwards Down the Number Line, which was the perfect birthday song for Kyle. Tons of people hate on this song, but it doesn't deserve a bad reputation. In fact, everyone should smile when they hear this song and be thankful that Phish is still alive and well, playing for US! This song is on one of Phish's more recent albums, Joy, which was the first thing they released when they got back together after their 2nd break up (Phish 3.0). Trey became sober during this time apart from the band. When they reunited, they were so happy to be back together and you can hear it throughout this whole album. My favorite line in Backwards Down the Number Line [talking about friendship] is "you decide what it contains, how long it goes but this remains, the only rule is it begins, happy happy oh my friend." I really relate to this line and song in general. It's very touching, so give it a chance. Close your eyes, listen to the words, hugs your friends, be happy!! 2nd set was retarded, opening with Wilson > Down With Disease > Carini > Steam... mind blown!!! It didn't stop there. The encore was a set in itself, they played an hour over their curfew of midnight. Keeping with tradition, the encore songs spelled T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U. Phish likes to throw in little surprises like that at Dick's, previous years they have spelled "Most Shows Spell Something" and "Fuck Your Face." What silly, clever dudes! I love them!! They said "see you next year" and Kyle and I definitely want to make Dick's a tradition. There's nothing else like it! We didn't catch another late night show, but we wandered around the campground late night, chatting with people (mostly about Phish). I'd say Kyle had a pretty amazing 23rd birthday. To top it all off, we stopped at a recreational store called Lightshade on our way out, who just happened to have an amazing deal for Phish attendees. We got 5 loaded joints for $40, that normally retail for around $70! The bud tenders (that's what the employees are called, love it) said they were more busy this weekend of Phish then they were on 4/20. Typical...

And we're off again, to hopefully make Hood River, Oregon our home. Wish us luck!